POCKETED BABY SWEATER JACKET PATTERN ~ 6 MO

Materials: Bernat Baby Sport (10.5 oz. skein); 1 pair US #3 knitting needles; 1 pair + a spare US #6 knitting needles; 2 stitch holders; 6 buttons.

This pattern is not my own - it comes from a Baby Pattern Book.

Terms used:

Co = cast on

K = knit.

P = purl

St st = stockinette sticth

Inc = increase

Dec = decrease

Sl = slip 1 st purlwise

Psso = pass 1 st over slip st

Rpt = repeat

Back: With #3 needles, co 65 sts.

1^st Row (Right Side): K1, *P1, K1. Rpt from * to end of row.

2^nd Row: P1, *K1, P1. Rpt from * to end of row.

Rpt these two rows (K1, P1) ribbing twice more. 6 rows in all.

Change to #6 needles and proceed in st st until work from beginning measures 6-1/2 inches – ending with right side facing for next row.

To shape raglans: Cast off 2 sts beginning of next 2 rows. Work 2 rows even.

1^st Row: K1, sl 1, K1, psso – k to last 3 sts – k2tog, K1.

2^nd Row: P

Rpt last two rows until 23 sts remain on needle, ending with right side facing. Cast off remaining sts.

Jacket Back done.

**I worked the pockets into the front pieces at the ribbed hemline before starting the body of the sweater fronts – for me, it was simpler**. But if you are new to knitting … stick with the pattern as printed until you gain confidence enough to try more advanced workmanship.

Pocket Linings (make 2): With # 6 needles, co 21 sts and work 24 rows st st; ending with right side facing for next row. Using # 3 needles, k across 21 sts.

K 4 rows. Cast off knitways (wrong side). Leave long tail of yarn for sewing pocket in place. Leave these sts on a spare needle.

I always work my front pieces together – for me, it helps keep the sizing accurate. But if you are new to knitting … stick with the pattern as printed until you gain confidence enough to try more advanced workmanship.

Worked both Front pieces at same time for exact lengthwise measurements.

Left Front: **With #3 needles, co 31 sts. Work 6 rows in (K1, P1) ribbing as given for Back & inc 1 st at center of last row: 32 sts on needle.

Change to #6 needles, and proceed in st st for 24 rows – ending with right side facing for next row.**

To place pocket: Next Row: K4. Sl next 21 sts onto a st holder. K21 sts from pocket lining. K to end of row.

Continue even in st st until work from beginning measures same length as Back to beginning of raglan shaping, ending with right side facing for next row.

To shape raglan: Cast off 2 sts beginning of next row. Work 3 rows even.

1^st Row: K1, sl 1, K1, passo. K to end of row.

2^nd Row: Purl.

Rpt last two rows until there are 15 sts left on needle; end with wrong side facing for next row.

To shape Neck: Next Row: Cast off 6 sts (neck edge). Purl to end of row.

Dec 1 st at neck edge on next and following 2 alternate rows, at same time, continue dec’ing at raglan edge as before until there are 2 sts left on needle. Work 1 row even.

Next Row: Work 2tog. Fasten off.

Right Front: Work ** to ** as written for Left front.

To place pocket: Next Row: K7. Sl next 21 sts onto a st holder. K21 sts from pocket lining. K to end of row.

Continue even in st st until work from beginning measures same length as Back to beginning of raglan shaping, ending with wrong side facing for next row.

To shape raglan: Cast off 2 sts beginning next row. Work 2 rows even.

1^st Row: K to last 3 sts. K2tog, K1.

2^nd Row: Purl.

Rpt these last 2 rows until 15 sts remain on needle, ending with right side facing for next row.

To shape Neck: Next Row: Cast off 6 sts (neck edge). K to last 3 sts. K2tog, K1.

Purl 1 row.

Dec 1 st at neck edge on next and following 2 alternate rows, at same time, continue dec’ing at raglan edge as before to 2 sts on needle. Work 1 row even.

Next Row: Work 2tog. Fasten off.

Front pieces done.

**I always work my sleeve pieces together – for me, it helps keep the sizing accurate**. But if you are new to knitting … stick with the pattern as printed until you gain confidence enough to try more advanced workmanship.

Sleeves: With #3 needles, co 33 sts. Work 1-1/2-inches in (K1, P1) ribbing as written for Back, ending on a 2^nd row and inc’ing 12 sts evenly across last row: 45 sts on needle.

Change to #6 needles and proceed in st st, inc’ing 1 st at each end of needle on 5^th and following 4^th rows until there are 61 sts on needle.

Continue even until work from beginning measures 6”, ending with right side facing for next row.

To shape raglans: Cast off 2 sts beginning of next 2 rows.

1^st Row: K1, sl 1, K1, psso. K to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1.

2^nd Row: P1, P2tog. Purl to last 3 sts, P2tog, P1.

3^rd Row: As 1^st row.

4^th Row: Purl.

Rpt last 4 rows four times more, ending with right side facing for next row: 27 sts on needle.

1^st Row: K1, sl 1, K1, psso. Knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.

2^nd Row: Purl.

Rpt last two rows until there are 7 sts on needle, ending with right side facing for next row. Cast off.

Sleeves finished.

**I always ‘hem’ my ribbed hems as I work my hood – for me this is easier and saves time**. But if you are new to knitting … stick with the pattern as printed until you gain confidence enough to try more advanced workmanship.

Ribbed face hem of Hood piece knitted together to form drawstring casing.

Working st st hood piece above ribbed drawstring casing.

Hood: With #3 needles co 97 sts. Work 4 rows (K1, P1) ribbing as written for Back.

Next Row: Purl (fold line). Work 5 more rows ribbing.

Change to #6 needles and proceed in st st until work from fold line measures 5-1/2 inches, ending with right side facing for next row.

1^st Row: K1, *K2tog, K10. Rpt from * to end of row.

2^nd Row: Purl:

3^rd Row: K1. *K2tog, K9. Rpt from * to end of row.

4^th Row: Purl.

Continue in this manner, dec’ing 8 sts evenly across next and alternating rows until there are 9 sts on needle. Break yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. Draw end of yarn through remaining sts and fasten off securely.

Hood piece.

**I always work my buttonhole/button bands at the same time – for me this is easier, saves, and ensures the lengths match**. But if you are new to knitting … stick with the pattern as printed until you gain confidence enough to try more advanced workmanship.

Buttonhole Band: With #3 needles, co 9 sts.

1^st Row (Right side): K2 (P1. K1) three times. K1.

2^nd Row: (K1, P1) four times. K1.

Girl’s version: 3^rd Row: Rib 3, cast off 2 sts, rib 4.

4^th Row: Rib, co 2 sts over cast off sts.

Boy’s version: 3^rd Row: Rib 4, cast off 2 sts, rib 3.

4^th Row: Rib, co 2 sts over cast off sts.

Both versions: Work 14 rows more of ribbing.

Rpt last 16 rows four times more; then 3^rd and 4^th rows once; 6 buttonholes made. Work 2 rows ribbing. Cast off in ribbing.

Buttonhole & Button Bands

Button Band: Work to correspond to buttonhole band – omitting buttonholes.

Pocket Borders: With right side of work facing, use #3 needles and knit across 21 sts from pocket st holder. Knit 4 rows. Cast of knitways (wrong side).

To Make Up: Sew raglan sleeves to Back piece.

Sew side and sleeve seams.

Sew buttonhole band to right side for Girl’s version … or to the left, for Boy’s version. Sew button band in position.

Sew center back seam of hood from point to beginning of hood decreases. Fold casing at front of hood to inside along fold-line – and sew in position, leaving openings at end to insert twisted cord. Sew hood to neck edge. Insert twisted cord through hood casing. Sew pompom to point of hood. Sew buttons to correspond to buttonholes. Sew pocket lining in position on wrong side … and pocket borders in position on right side. Do not press.

Baby Sweater jacket finished. 6 MO

To Make Twisted Cord: Cut 2 strands of yarn 96-inches long. With both strands together, hold one end – and have someone else hold the other end. Twist strands to the right until they begin to curl. Fold the 2 ends together and knot so they will not unravel. The strands will now twist themselves together to form a cord. Adjust length if desired.

To Make Pompom: Wind yarn around 3 fingers approximately 75 times. Remove from fingers and tie tightly in the center. Cut through each side of loops. Trim to a smooth round shape.