Materials: Bernat Baby Sport (10.5 oz.
skein); 1 pair US #3 knitting needles; 1 pair + a spare US #6 knitting needles;
2 stitch holders; 6 buttons.
This pattern is not my own - it comes from a Baby Pattern Book.
Terms used:
Co = cast on
K = knit.
P = purl
St st = stockinette sticth
Inc = increase
Dec = decrease
Sl = slip 1 st purlwise
Psso = pass 1 st over slip st
Rpt = repeat
Back: With #3 needles, co 65 sts.
1st Row (Right Side): K1, *P1, K1. Rpt from * to end of row.
2nd Row: P1, *K1, P1. Rpt from * to end of row.
Rpt these two rows (K1, P1) ribbing twice
more. 6 rows in all.
Change to #6 needles and proceed in st st until
work from beginning measures 6-1/2 inches – ending with right side facing for
next row.
To shape raglans: Cast off 2 sts beginning of next
2 rows. Work 2 rows even.
1st Row: K1, sl 1, K1, psso – k to last 3 sts – k2tog, K1.
2nd Row: P
Rpt last two rows until 23 sts remain on
needle, ending with right side facing. Cast off remaining sts.
Jacket Back done.
**I worked the pockets into the
front pieces at the ribbed hemline before starting the body of the sweater
fronts – for me, it was simpler**. But if you are
new to knitting … stick with the pattern as printed until you gain confidence
enough to try more advanced workmanship.
Pocket Linings (make 2): With # 6 needles, co 21 sts and
work 24 rows st st; ending with right side facing for next row. Using # 3
needles, k across 21 sts.
K 4 rows. Cast off knitways (wrong side).
Leave long tail of yarn for sewing pocket in place. Leave these sts on a spare
needle.
I always work my front pieces
together – for me, it helps keep the sizing accurate. But if you are new to knitting … stick with the pattern as
printed until you gain confidence enough to try more advanced workmanship.
Worked both Front pieces at same time for exact lengthwise measurements.
Left Front: **With #3 needles, co 31
sts. Work 6 rows in (K1, P1) ribbing as given for Back & inc 1 st at center
of last row: 32 sts on needle.
Change to #6 needles, and proceed in st st
for 24 rows – ending with right side facing for next row.**
To place pocket: Next Row: K4. Sl next 21 sts onto a
st holder. K21 sts from pocket lining. K to end of row.
Continue even in st st until work from
beginning measures same length as Back to beginning of raglan shaping, ending
with right side facing for next row.
To shape raglan: Cast off 2 sts beginning of next
row. Work 3 rows even.
1st Row: K1, sl 1, K1, passo. K to end of row.
2nd Row: Purl.
Rpt last two rows until there are 15 sts left
on needle; end with wrong side facing for next row.
To shape Neck: Next Row: Cast off 6 sts (neck edge).
Purl to end of row.
Dec 1 st at neck edge on next and following 2
alternate rows, at same time, continue dec’ing at raglan edge as
before until there are 2 sts left on needle. Work 1 row even.
Next Row: Work 2tog. Fasten off.
Right Front: Work ** to ** as
written for Left front.
To place pocket: Next Row: K7. Sl next 21 sts onto a
st holder. K21 sts from pocket lining. K to end of row.
Continue even in st st until work from
beginning measures same length as Back to beginning of raglan shaping, ending
with wrong side facing for next row.
To shape raglan: Cast off 2 sts beginning next
row. Work 2 rows even.
1st Row: K to last 3 sts. K2tog, K1.
2nd Row: Purl.
Rpt these last 2 rows until 15 sts remain on
needle, ending with right side facing for next row.
To shape Neck: Next Row: Cast off 6 sts (neck edge).
K to last 3 sts. K2tog, K1.
Purl 1 row.
Dec 1 st at neck edge on next and following 2
alternate rows, at same time, continue dec’ing at raglan edge as
before to 2 sts on needle. Work 1 row even.
Next Row: Work 2tog. Fasten off.
Front pieces done.
**I always work my sleeve pieces
together – for me, it helps keep the sizing accurate**. But if you are new to knitting … stick with the pattern as
printed until you gain confidence enough to try more advanced workmanship.
Sleeves: With #3 needles, co 33 sts. Work
1-1/2-inches in (K1, P1) ribbing as written for Back, ending on a 2nd
row and inc’ing 12 sts evenly across last row: 45 sts on needle.
Change to #6 needles and proceed in st st,
inc’ing 1 st at each end of needle on 5th and following 4th
rows until there are 61 sts on needle.
Continue even until work from beginning measures
6”, ending with right side facing for next row.
To shape raglans: Cast off 2 sts beginning of next
2 rows.
1st Row: K1, sl 1, K1, psso. K to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1.
2nd Row: P1, P2tog. Purl to last 3 sts, P2tog, P1.
3rd Row: As 1st row.
4th Row: Purl.
Rpt last 4 rows four times more, ending with
right side facing for next row: 27 sts on needle.
1st Row: K1, sl 1, K1, psso. Knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.
2nd Row: Purl.
Rpt last two rows until there are 7 sts on
needle, ending with right side facing for next row. Cast off.
Sleeves finished.
**I always ‘hem’ my ribbed hems as
I work my hood – for me this is easier and saves time**. But if you are new to knitting … stick with the pattern as
printed until you gain confidence enough to try more advanced workmanship.
Ribbed face hem of Hood piece knitted together to form drawstring casing.
Working st st hood piece above ribbed drawstring casing.
Hood: With #3 needles co 97 sts. Work 4 rows (K1, P1) ribbing as
written for Back.
Next Row: Purl (fold line). Work 5 more rows ribbing.
Change to #6 needles and proceed in st st
until work from fold line measures 5-1/2 inches, ending with
right side facing for next row.
1st Row: K1, *K2tog, K10. Rpt from * to end of row.
2nd Row: Purl:
3rd Row: K1. *K2tog, K9. Rpt from * to end of row.
4th Row: Purl.
Continue in this manner, dec’ing 8 sts evenly
across next and alternating rows until there are 9 sts on needle. Break yarn,
leaving a long tail for sewing. Draw end of yarn through remaining sts and
fasten off securely.
Hood piece.
**I always work my
buttonhole/button bands at the same time – for me this is easier, saves, and
ensures the lengths match**. But if you are new to
knitting … stick with the pattern as printed until you gain confidence enough
to try more advanced workmanship.
Buttonhole Band: With #3 needles, co 9 sts.
1st Row (Right side): K2 (P1. K1) three times. K1.
2nd Row: (K1, P1) four times. K1.
Girl’s version: 3rd Row: Rib 3, cast off
2 sts, rib 4.
4th Row: Rib, co 2 sts over cast off sts.
Boy’s version: 3rd Row: Rib 4, cast off
2 sts, rib 3.
4th Row: Rib, co 2 sts over cast off sts.
Both versions: Work 14 rows more of ribbing.
Rpt last 16 rows four times more; then 3rd
and 4th rows once; 6 buttonholes made. Work 2 rows ribbing. Cast off
in ribbing.
Buttonhole & Button Bands
Button Band: Work to correspond to buttonhole
band – omitting buttonholes.
Pocket Borders: With right side of work facing,
use #3 needles and knit across 21 sts from pocket st holder. Knit 4 rows. Cast
of knitways (wrong side).
To Make Up: Sew raglan sleeves to Back piece.
Sew side and sleeve seams.
Sew buttonhole band to right side for Girl’s
version … or to the left, for Boy’s version. Sew button band in position.
Sew center back seam of hood from point to
beginning of hood decreases. Fold casing at front of hood to inside along
fold-line – and sew in position, leaving openings at end to insert twisted cord.
Sew hood to neck edge. Insert twisted cord through hood casing. Sew pompom to
point of hood. Sew buttons to correspond to buttonholes. Sew pocket lining in
position on wrong side … and pocket borders in position on right side. Do
not press.
Baby Sweater jacket finished. 6 MO
To Make Twisted Cord: Cut 2 strands of yarn 96-inches long. With both strands
together, hold one end – and have someone else hold the other end. Twist
strands to the right until they begin to curl. Fold the 2 ends together
and knot so they will not unravel. The strands will now twist themselves
together to form a cord. Adjust length if desired.
To Make Pompom: Wind yarn around 3 fingers
approximately 75 times. Remove from fingers and tie tightly in the center. Cut
through each side of loops. Trim to a smooth round shape.
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